bottom up sweater neck shaping
I’ve been following along with video tutorials/blog posts from Knit Picks “How to knit a Sweater” with Nina, knitting a crew neck Raglan bottom up sweater in the round. Hey there! Put an ugly neckline on your sweater and it will bring the whole design down - no matter how beautiful the rest of it is. As a rule of thumb, the narrower the neckline, the deeper it must be in order to fit the head. If you are… what i can’t figure out is how to do the first row of neck increases as well as the raglan increases. Greatly appreciate your attention to detail! This ensures that the neck width looks balanced on every shoulder width. It turns out, that, if you look at your neck from the side, it actually points a little forward, instead of pointing straight up. To make a pullover from the bottom up, you knit with 3 tubes (2 sleeve tubes and a body tube), then you join them all together for the yoke. Even if you are working in a stitch pattern, you will BO in KNIT, not in pattern. Patterns can also be moved or taken down. Repeat from * 9 more times. For the bottom up version, stitches are cast on at the hem of the sweater then knit in a tube up to the armholes. It’s more likely that you will need to do something like “dec 1 at the neck edge every second row 10 times then every fourth row 20 times”. "When work measures 17 3/4" bind off the 20 center sts." V-necks can be designed with the neck depth of your choice. The bottom of the neck is bound off or cast on, depending on whether you’re knitting from the bottom-up or top-down, and the edges of the neck are shaped with increases or decreases for a few rows to create the desired neck width (same as the width for the front neck) and depth (usually 2.5 cm/1 in). In many of these patterns, the garment is worked in smaller, more manageable pieces. I always drop a needle size but this may depend on you, your knitting and the yarn. Just follow the exact instructions for the back, but don't do the same neck shaping. The instructions were clearly and simply stated and the photographs added to the clarity of each instruction. Getting bottom up sweaters to fit beautifully. Do you have any questions on designing necklines? This is particularly annoying with cardigans. These two construction methods are Top-Down and Bottom-Up. It begins on the first WS row after you have BO the center neck sts: WS: Work as established to 1 st before your neckline. The Roxanna Cardigan from Stashknits is a seamless bottom up cardi that’s a great choice for new sweater knitters. Some designers are adding just a bit of waist shaping—you can find very gentle shaping in Ysolda Teague's Strokkur pattern (shown above), for example. I’m knitting my very first sweater and am stuck at the neckline shaping. The logic is this: if I were making a simple crew neck sweater, the front bind-off would be roughly 1/2 the sts of the back of neck, in this case, 10 sts total for me (I think. Sleeves are cast on at the cuff and worked up the the armhole. Continue as established for subsequent BO’s. Join our mailing list for updates and exclusive offers. Every neckline should be as tidy as the one on the right. (See the original Bias Bind-off tutorial.) A round neck worked from the bottom-up is created by binding off the middle of the neck stitches (typically 30-50% of the neck width) and then shaping either side of the neck to create a smooth curve. Kf&b into this st. Let me know in the comments below and I will either answer them in a reply or cover them on the blog later on. Now pull the extra st (the one you made by knitting through the back of the previous st) OVER this st (in other words, BO using the new, extra stitch). Does this same technique work for a sweater done in garter stitch? So, where do short rows come into play for a bottom-up (or a top-down) sweater knit in the round? With a V-neck, you need to achieve a specific neck width at the same time as reaching a set neck depth. Traditionally, Lopi sweaters are straight up and down through the body, with no waist shaping to nip in just a bit at the smallest part of a body. If you are continuing with neckline decreases, be sure to continue with Bias BO. Bottom-Up: 1113 Free Patterns In this section, you can find free Bottom-Up knitting patterns. Common Fit Issues and How to Avoid Them in Your Knitting Pattern Designs, How to Design Well-Fitting Necklines: Round Neck and V-Neck, How to Use Ease When Designing Knitting Patterns, How to Design and Grade a Knitted Set-In Sleeve, How to Estimate Yardage in Knitting Patterns. Now that the neck shaping has been worked, the last set of shoulder short rows can be completed. Remove marker and knit the first st of your BO. The way my pattern outlines shaping the neck, I get the step ladder look, and yours is much prettier! Close. The completed sweater before blocking. Knit across the left sleeve stitches, and then knit about a third of the stitches from the front, making a note of how many of the front stitches you worked. If you are leaving your neckline raw, these techniques are a must. Our directory links to free knitting patterns only. If it has an odd number of stitches, bind off or work a decrease to remove that central stitch and then start working the decreases. And this same technique can be used at the back of the neck, as well. $14.99 with code. then you will probably be instructed to pick up 1 stitch in each of the stitches that you cast on for each shoulder. Knit one round without shaping. In practice, this instruction will give you a shallower diagonal at the bottom of the V and a steeper one after that. BO additional sts normally (in example, BO 2 more sts; purl 1, pull 2nd st over first, repeat). Other options include adding a shawl collar or making the bands overlap at the bottom. 419 Worcester Rd. Bottom-Up Sweaters are knit starting from the hem and knitting the sweater in … RS: Work sts as established (example is knit) to last st, slip last st p-wise, turn. Knitting a sweater from the bottom up means that you can't try it on as you go. until you get to the second marker. Short rows for neck shaping and funnel neck worked from the body. This one looks super cozy, too. Required fields are marked *. After the initial BO for the center neck sts, you will finish the Right Front first and will probably have multiple BO’s at the neckline edge. $33 with code. Raglan style decreases are made in such a way as to not disrupt the lace of the sleeve. Wrong side: Purl to 6 stitches before Marker D, wrap & turn. Now you have one st on your Right needle and the marker is the next thing on your left needle. In the example pictured the WS is a purl row; purl every st leaving at least a 6” tail at the neckline edge. The exception to this rule is a boat or funnel neck - they can be as small as 20.5 cm (8 in) as long as the bind-off is stretchy. Round necklines remove the neck stitches in three distinct areas: A BO section in the center, then two different rates of decrease. Ha! Help. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. December 13, 2013 by Pinko Knitter. The instructions will work for both top-down and bottom-up sweaters, but the wedge will either be smaller on top or on the bottom depending on which direction you’re knitting. —Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus By adding a few short rows into the backside of the sweater and just above the bottom edging you can remedy this issue. Your neckline must be large enough to actually put the head through. http://howtoknitasweater.com http://sweater101.com Understand how to WRAP AND TURN in knitting. The exception to this is if the front neckline dips (which it normally does!) As someone who freestyle knits regularly, I have always been afraid to make a sweater. To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. Remove marker and knit the first st of your BO. That’s fine if it’s the shape you want to achieve, but if you want the V to be as straight as possible, you can evenly space the decreases so that the shaping is more consistent. Next WS row, work to the last st, slip it p-wise, turn. I was stuck on the instruction (knit both sides) but I was able to use your tutorial to understand how to proceed and adapt the instructions to my pattern. Finally after 60 years of knitting a tutorial that will make my necklines beautiful. Do you need to be good at maths to be a knitting pattern designer? RS: slip the first 2 sts p-wise, pull the 2nd st over 1st (1 st bound off), then BO one more normally (2 sts bound off), k to end of row. RS: slip the first 2 sts p-wise, pull the 2nd st over 1st. Your tutorial is one of the most thorough and useful knitting tutorials I have seen in a long time. But sometimes patterns that were available for free become pay-walled later. Believe me, this eliminates any confusion as to how many sts have been BO! The neck shaping is worked up until about 1-2.5 cm (0.5-1 in) before the top of the neck so that the neckband can curve smoothly over the shoulder to the back neck. That showed me. Even if you are picking up stitches to finish the neckline, look how much easier picking up stitches will be around the neckline of the sample to the right. I can’t wait to use it. All of the sweaters in the Heart on my Sleeve collection are worked this way, as well as many other TCK sweaters. Let’s take for example the instructions: “on neck edge BO 3 sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st 3 times,” you would work the first of the initial 3 BO’s using Bias BO: WS: work to last st, slip the last st p-wise, turn. This is the horizontal equivalent to a vertical selvage stitch. One of my pet hates with deep V-necks is that they can slip off the shoulders if the neck width is too wide. This means you knit the sleeves first (in the round – note that a sleeve makes a pretty good gauge swatch!). A classic neckband on a V-neck pullover will be mitered at the bottom of the V. I love this detail - it looks so tailored and elegant! In her book, Knitting Pattern Essentials, Sally Melville shares her “Rule of 10”. Thank you. On the RS work as established to 1 st before the first marker. The example used “BO 3 sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st 3 times” was exactly what my pattern required me to do and I was at an absolute loss on how to proceed. Mandelbrot is a bottom-up seamless sweater knitted in the round, featuring a stranded circular yoke and a slightly raised more comfortable neckline on the back, shaped with short rows. At SKM Collection, we offer a wide selection of fashion jewelry, clothing, and accessories at affordable prices. Thank you so much! If you are working from the top-down, increase on either side of the neck until you reach the correct stitch count and neck depth. Posted by 7 days ago. When the back and front are complete to the underarm you will join each side by casting on stitches at the underarm area. You can see that the beginning of the BO is nice and neat, no gap where you began the BO. When planning the width/depth of your neckline, figure out the depth of your neck trims and exclude them from your calculations or else the finished neck will look narrower and shallower than you planned. Step 1: Pick up and knit the stitches around the neckline at a ratio of 1:1. This is a great first sweater! I am afraid this will leave holes when I pick up these for the neck band. Once you have finished all BO’s for neckline edge, finish the Right Front per your instructions. For the example, I have used Stockinette Stitch so I knit to 1 st before the marker. Inspiration, Design Process, Creative Block, marketing, launch plan, releasing knitting patterns, The Knitting Pattern Designer's Guide to Buttonholes, 7 Tips for Drawing Beautiful Knitting Pattern Schematics, 3 Sweater Styles to Design from the Top Down. From the top-down, you will do the opposite. And trying it on as you go (like you are able to do when you knit top down) can make it much easier to get the fit right. Play around with adding a turtleneck, cowl or collar to give your neckline a different look. This is where the neckband will be picked up from later. I’ve never skipped the short rows on a sweater again. Unless you are knitting your neckband at the same time as shaping the neck, remember to add a “selvedge stitch” at the edges of the neckline. $37. Right side: Knit to 5 stitches before Marker C, wrap & turn. From there you work the body straight down to the bottom of the sweater, adding any shaping you might like. Karen Templer’s article on round-yoke sweaters is also worth a read for further discussion on their construction. The order you … Wrap and turn, then purl all the way around the left front, left sleeve, the back, the right sleeve, and then the same number of stitches into the right front as you worked on the left. If the front of your sweater has an even number of stitches, shaping a V-neck is as simple as splitting your front piece in half and working decreases to reach your required neck width. Work as established to the end of your row. It is one of the main places that the eye is drawn to since it frames the face. However I'm absolutely losing my mind trying to figure out doing the raglan yoke decreases and neck shaping at the same time. At this point the sleeves are joined to the body of the sweater and stitches are decreased in four even intervals up to the neckline. Typically, they don’t tend to be any deeper than the start of the armhole shaping, although they could go a little deeper if you wanted. Circular Bottom … You would work these two rows 2 more times so that you have bound off 1 st 3 times. When planning your neck depth, consider that the bottom of the V will be filled in by your neckband so your actual neck depth will end up being a fair amount shallower. Please note, comments must be approved before they are published, Your email address will not be published. I haven’t looked at this in a while). Cardigans can be worked from the bottom up, too, of course. In this blog post, I’ll be showing you how to design a well-fitting neckline as well as covering the most popular necklines I see used in knitting patterns today: the round neck and the V-neck. in which case skip the odd stitch here and there as you go down the slight angle on either side of the neck. It is knit in a simple stocking stitch, but you can add your own special touches to it with a knitted motif such as the Sarah Lund jumper designs, or a cable knit. Typical depths range from around 3 – 3.5” (7.5 – 9 cm) for a crew neck and anywhere over 5” (12.5 cm) for a scoop. A high round neck (a crew neck) tends to be 7.5-9 cm (3-3.5 in) deep whilst a deep round neck (a scoop neck) will be more like 10-11.5cm (4-4.5 in) deep. I recently made it to the neckline of my fair isle sweater and was at a complete loss. If the neck width and the front depth add up to 25.5 cm (10 in) or more, the neckline will fit over an average woman’s head. Then knit the body (in rows, since it is a cardigan) to the underarm. RS: slip the first 2 sts p-wise, pull the 2nd st over 1st. If you are working in a different stitch pattern, work in pattern to that last st, then k1f&b. Any help would be appreciated – as the pictures in the tutorial show a perfect neck line with no enlarged BOs. 4. Your cable motif should have continued evenly in pattern up from your sweater’s bottom hem and cuffs. I am a new knitter and experimenting with my first neckline. (As you purl to the other side of the neck, pick up the wrap that is 5 stitches before Marker B and purl it with its stitch.) You will finish the Left Front exactly as the Right Front, working Bias BO on WS. This knitting pattern makes a raglan sleeve jumper and is knit on circular needles from the bottom up. 1. Tag Archives: neck shaping with short rows Another Finished Object Friday. The beauty of these classic necklines is that you can use them in their simplest form or you can jazz them up by adding a placket or some kind of collar. I would suggest trying the instructions once more and if that doesn’t work, please email us at email@example.com and we’ll be happy to help you figure it out. Typical depths range between 1” (2.5 cm) above and 2” (5 cm) below armhole shaping. You're good with this part, great! Sweater is knit from the bottom up in the round and sleeves and body joined at the underarm. I'm using Nina's sweater class from Kitpicks which is about ten years old but seemed pretty straight forward bottom up sweater formula to me. Some designers like to use several sets of bind-offs in a round neck, but I prefer to only use decreases. Once you are finished you can tighten up the tail you left and use it to neaten that change in direction if necessary. This tip might feel a little obvious, however, I encountered this problem a few too many times as a knitwear design student...! Bottom-up seamless sweaters are great for the knitter on the go. Round neck, crew neck, scoop neck… they’re essentially all the same thing but with varying neck widths and depths. It’s easy to get distracted here. Hi Sam, Yes, this will work fine in garter stitch. Pull the 2nd st over the 1st; This counts as 1 st bound off. E.g. WS: slip the first 2 sts purl-wise, pull 2nd st over first. The sleeves are then knit, starting from the cuffs, and worked to the desired length. Slip two stitches to the right hand needle then knit the two stitches together. Unfortunately, most are written like the one on the left. If it has an odd number of stitches, bind off or work a decrease to remove that central stitch and then start working the decreases. You would need to BO 2 more sts normally (knit, pull 2nd st over first, repeat once) to get to a total of 3 sts bound off on the first row, then work remaining sts as established to end of row. Raising the back neck with above-the-yoke short rows is the solution I've most often seen in bottom-up colorwork sweaters, like in many DROPS Design patterns. For these you want to use Bias BO to avoid the stair-step effect of a regular BO. Necklines have a big influence on how a garment fits. ... You can top everything from a skirt or dress to a pair of pants or shorts with a button-up sweater. I was so pleased to find this tutorial online. Top-Down Sweaters are knit starting from the neck and working the sweater down toward the hem, usually in one piece. Remove the marker and BO one more st. Depending on your pattern this could be any number, I am using 7 sts for this example. You can’t count this as a BO because you added a st, then got rid of it – this is why I have you place markers to denote the sts you want to BO. *Dec 1 at the neck edge every fourth row 2 times, then on the second row once. Unless you’re doing something fancy, the back neck tends to be very similar, whether you’re working a round neck or a V-neck. Mess up the neck width or depth and you’ll be dealing with a number of fit issues. A traditional version with straight sleeves and body is provided, but the construction is also revisited to allow a more feminine fit, featuring waist shaping and fitted sleeves with an underarm gusset. This will guarantee that you have bound off the correct number of stitches. The Antler Sweater is knit from the bottom up. It’s not just the aesthetics either. How do I convert a bottom-up sweater's V neck into a crew neck? This is your 1 BO, work sts as established to the end of row. When your knitting measures 17 3/4" from the beginning, you will need to bind off the center 20 sts to begin the front neck shaping. Join our monthly wholesale newsletter for new product releases and company updates. Once you’ve got a good understanding of these necklines, you can have a lot of fun customising them. Very nice and clear instructions!! I really enjoy coming back to this post and reading it for my future projects. I wanted to tell you “thank you” for such a detailed tutorial and very well made. That leaves the Left Front to be finished as follows: WS of Left Front: Join your yarn and work one WS row with no slipping or BO’s. St. John's Bay Womens Mock Neck Long Sleeve Sweatshirt. The technique described above has made my project look extremely professional. A round neck looks elegant with a simple neck trim, however, there are further options to customise this neckline. Even if you are working in a Slip the marker and knit two stitches together and repeat until the end of the round. I often calculate 40-50% of that measurement to get my round neck width. From the Bottom-Up If the front of your sweater has an even number of stitches, shaping a V-neck is as simple as splitting your front piece in half and working decreases to reach your required neck width. Increase at the sides of the neck to shape the neckline curve and then cast-on the remaining stitches (usually, 30-50% of the neck width in stitches) at the bottom of the neck. Stylus Elastic Bottom Womens Crew Neck Long Sleeve Sweatshirt. Repeat these two rounds until the sweater is the desired length from the underarm to the neck. Thank you so much and God keep blessing your job. The ridges where you’ve knit your k2tog’s and ssk’s will from two sets of parallel ridges on the front and back of your sweater, angling toward the neckline. If you are looking for a tutorial on a bottom up cardigan check out our Antler tutorial here. Be sure to bind off in the knit stitch on the right side and purl on the wrong side, so you will get the same “horizontal equivalent to a vertical selvage stitch” that Julie mentions here. I have a few questions that hopefully some of you can help me with! The added length translates to a pouch in the sweater when both the top and bottom edges are held flat. If you worked neck shaping for the back neck. The neck width of a round neck sweater can be calculated as a percentage of the body’s cross back width (from the tip of one shoulder to the other). It’s often not as easy as decreasing a stitch at the neck edge on every right-side row until you reach the correct depth. This is particularly important in a V-neck design. Going from knitting in the round to flat once you bind off for the neck. 7. I think it will be complicated as the cables shape the V neck, you would have to invent an end for the cables or different cables, also being your first sweater I wouldn't recommend it. Bottom-Up Construction. I have worked this sample in Stockinette stitch but the technique works just as well when working in stitch patterns. To create a shallower curve at the bottom of the neck, you could work a series of cast-ons rather than using only increases to shape the neck, however I don’t do this myself. If you have further BO, they are normal (knit, pull 2nd st over first). You can imagine my delight in finding this guidance online. 6 sts went into the placket, that leaves 4 more to bind … Slip the last st purl-wise, turn. I’m trying to do the shaped neck and with my measurements came up with a 1/1/14/40/14/1/1 situation. Next WS row you would again work to the last st and slip it p-wise, turn. A neckline can make or break your sweater design. Framingham, MA 01701 508-309-7758 Hours: Monday: Closed Tues.-Fri: 10 am - 6 pm Saturday: 10 am - 5 pm Sunday: 12 pm - 4 pm This tutorial saved the neck on my first sweater. I just tried this and I am having problems with the enlarged bias BO stitches especially when I have to BO 1 stitch 3 times . ... His sweaters tend to ride up a bit in the back, and the extra length from the short rows should eliminate that problem. Since I can't travel to every corner of the world to teach this in my European Finishing class, I'm posting instructions for the Proper Cocoknits Neckline for every knitter to use and enjoy. This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. To avoid this situation, make your neck width 30-40% of the body’s cross back width and no wider than 18 cm (7 in). DO NOT bind off your shoulder edges in steps. A yoke sweater is a circular sweater that is typically knit from the top-down (but can also be knit from the bottom up) and are often featured with a geometrical pattern around the neck. When you’re shaping the neck, it will typically be before the neckband has been picked up and knitted. When your pattern tells you to BO center sts for a neckline, place markers on either side of the sts to be bound off. Westminster Fibers has the Sunset Raglan, another pieced piece I really like for the different take on a V-neck. If you want a more shallow curve at the bottom of the neckline, you might want to use more sets of bind-offs. It’s as easy as that! Hi Doina, You shouldn’t be binding off the same stitch 3 times. The body is knit in the round from the bottom hem and then set aside. Fruit Of The Loom Full Zip Hoodie Cardigan. Now continue to BO normally (knit, pull over, knit, pull over, etc.) Adding short rows can be done on a top-down or bottom-up sweater. 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To 5 stitches before marker D, wrap & turn the blog later on would be –! Off your shoulder edges in steps bottom up sweater neck shaping John 's Bay Womens Mock neck Long sleeve Sweatshirt the deeper it be... Left needle my future projects by casting on stitches at the bottom and! Your knitting and the yarn each instruction needle then knit, pull 2nd st over first.. St. John 's Bay Womens Mock neck Long sleeve Sweatshirt working Bias BO techniques! With neckline decreases, be sure to continue with Bias BO on WS dips which... This eliminates any confusion as to how many sts have been BO to the underarm area very! Shaping the neck on my first sweater with deep v-necks is that they can slip off the shoulders the... Should have continued evenly in pattern up from later the narrower the at... Top and bottom edges are held flat knit in the round – note that a makes! Gap where you began the BO is nice and neat, no gap where you the... Make a sweater from the bottom of the neck on my first sweater and was a... A crew neck, i have seen in a while ) //sweater101.com Understand to! A knitting pattern designer westminster Fibers has the Sunset raglan, another pieced i! But with varying neck widths and depths set neck depth of your.., comments must be approved before they are normal ( knit, over. With increases on stitches at the same stitch 3 times around the at... Sleeves are cast on at the cuff and worked to the underarm you will join each side by on. Use it to the neck edge every fourth row 2 times, then k1f & b: a BO in. Pleased to find this tutorial saved the neck and with my first neckline then the... Are normal ( knit, starting from the underarm you will finish the left Front as... Scoop neck… they ’ re shaping the neck and with my measurements came up with a sweater. It on as you go down the slight angle on either side of the from. Stashknits is a seamless bottom up, too, of course pick up these the... Odd stitch here and there as you go use more sets of bind-offs hopefully some of you can up! For free become pay-walled later we offer a wide selection of fashion jewelry, clothing, and up... Are published, your email address will not be published be designed with the neck edge every row! Neck widths and depths imagine my delight in finding this guidance online more manageable pieces ( knit, over. Have continued evenly in pattern up from later discussion on their construction this.! Round – note that a sleeve makes a pretty good gauge swatch ). Cuff and worked up the the armhole are then knit the body ( in the comments below i... Bind-Offs in a stitch pattern, work sts as established ( example is in!... you can help me with newsletter for new product releases and company updates address.